A day to see what life costs and feels like an hour from Lisbon: a city with a castle, a market town and a fishing village on the Atlantic.
More and more people who work remotely choose the centre of Portugal over the capitals. We spend a day in three places with very different rhythms: Leiria, a university city with a castle, a river walk and good train and bus links; Caldas da Rainha, with its daily fruit market in the main square; and Nazaré, where the town still lives from the sea.
On the way we stop where locals actually live, not only in the old centres, and talk about rents, schools, health centres and coworking options.
The Lisbon weekend locals keep for themselves: a coastal trail, clear water and grilled fish in Setúbal.
